The 1964 Grand Seiko Chronometer Box..... is IN!

Finally together - with the 1964 Grand Seiko Chronometer, Owners Manual and a copy of a Chronometer Certificate, the original box just arrived from Japan.... this collection centerpiece is beginning to take form....

The box has a decidedly Oriental design, with the sides slightly angled and the base wider than the top. The red cushion is silk-like in texture and the writing is printed on the material. The felt base is removable, and includes a tab as well as an elastic loop to slot the watchband in.

The box is light and appears to be made of pressed cardboard, covered by what appears to be lacquered paper textured to look and feel like leather.

The search continues for the remaining parts of the collection, including a hang-tag, original chronometer certificate and receipt.... Until then, I have prepared a fascimile of the Chronometer Certificate (note the fictitious date and "Fascimile" stamp) based on a 1966 King Seiko Chronometer certificate, which is identical with the exception of the Lion Seal, which was printed after 1965, and should be a gold applied seal for 1964:

1964 Grand Seiko Chronometer vs. Rolex Oysterquartz

Today, I had the opportunity to compare a colleagues Rolex Oysterquartz, which he had inherited from his father, with the 1964 Grand Seiko Chronometer. Both are discreet, vintage steel watches, and both lie in approximately the same price frame, with the Rolex slightly more expensive.

Rolex Oysterquartz: For those not familiar with the Oysterquartz: "In 1977, after five years of design, development, and testing, Rolex introduced their first completely in-house quartz movements (the 5035 and 5055) and the Datejust (5035) and Day-Date (5055) Oysterquartz models that would house them. When they were introduced, the 5035 and 5055 quartz modules were marvels of technology as well as fit and finish. These 11 jewel movements utilized the latest CMOS circuitry, a 32khz oscillator, and analog thermocompensation. In addition, they were finished to even higher standards than Rolex's mechanical movements. It is no exaggeration to say that even today, no quartz movement produced by any watch company can compare to the 5035/5055 from the standpoint of sheer beauty." Reference: http://www.oysterquartz.net/


Grand Seiko Chronometer: The 1964 second-generation cal.430/43999 Grand Seiko Chronometer presented here is an original low-beat (18000bph) chronometer, superseded by high-beat (36000bph) and VFA (very fine adjustment) chronometers developed following Seiko’s international successes at the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer competitions. The present watch contains a chronometer-grade cal.430 movement defined by hand-selected components, fine regulator, self-compensating hairspring (reference needed), generous jeweling and large balance. Reference: http://vintageseikoblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/reflections-on-1964-cal-43043999-grand.html



The following is a pictorial summary of my half-hour sojourn with both watches:

The Rolex is marginally heavier than the Grand Seiko (112g / 107g). The Rolex was relatively small at Ø=34mm with the Grand Seiko weighing in at 36mm diameter. The Grand Seiko has an aftermarket bracelet (19mm endpieces/22mm SuperOyster bracelet) while the Rolex has a slightly less substantial integrated bracelet. The Rolex bracelet has a simple click-clasp while the Grand Seiko has a spring-loaded clasp with safety catch.

Indices and hands (bamboo leaf shape) on the Grand Seiko are multifacetted and highly polished, giving pleasing reflections of light while increasing readability. The Rolex has simpler indices and baton hands, giving a more subdued look - my colleague complained he couldn't read the dial as easily as he could his quartz Seiko.

The Grand Seiko has a simple pull-out crown, quick-setting date and time is very precise and there is no "slop" in the movement. The Rolex has the legendary Oyster screw-down crown, opening and closing the crown is very smooth and precise. The crown wobbles slightly when unscrewed, quick-setting the date was a bit fiddly, otherwise timesetting was precise and without "slop". The Grand Seiko has a nicely framed, legible date while the Rolex has the amazingly effective, trademark cyclops.

The Grand Seiko flashes and sparkles charmingly in spite of its discrete layout, while the Rolex is considerably more conservative. Both watches are very discrete and competent and both are a pleasure to wear.

1964 Cal 430 to 5722 Second Generation Grand Seiko Chronometer transition

 By way of introduction, these "second generation" Grand Seiko chronometers were preceded by cal. 3180 "first generation Grand Seiko". The 43999 has the caliber 430 (with "tadpole" regulation) and is occasionally termed 43GS, while the 57GS have the otherwise identical 5722A (tadpole) or the 5722B ("rack & pinion" regulation) caliber. Both are very similar to the original cal 3180 of the first GS.  My review of the cal. 430 Chronometer Grand Seiko can be seen at the Seiko and Citzen Watch forum

With respect to their crowns, a rule-of-thumb allowing the quick identification of otherwise essentially identical pieces is that the 43999 has a coarse-knurled crown, similar to that of the cal. 3180 "first generation Grand Seiko":

Source: Stefan Molle, http://mollewatch.webgain.se

while the 5722 has the fine-knurled crown:


Source: http://ninanet.net/watches/others15/Mediums/mseiko5722c01.jpg

Both the 43999 and 5722 version of the second GS have the "W SEIKO" imprint on the crown. What is uncertain is whether there was a transitional period where 43999s had a fine-knurled crown, or whether these crowns where subsequently fitted during repair and maintenance.

The following indications suggest that there was indeed a transition period:

Exhibit 1: Antiquorum's recent auction of an early (1965) 5722 with a coarse-knurled crown:


Source: http://catalog.antiquorum.com/catalog.html?action=load&lotid=159&auctionid=253

Not exactly conclusive, but next we have:

Exhibit 2: 43999 paperwork, and what we must assume is the associated 43999, with fine-knurled crown.

Source: uhm, not sure, but seem to remember it was cached from Rakuten.

and finally,

Exhibit 3: From the "Vintage Seiko GS Chronometer Crown Liner 5722 5719 BOOK" what appears to be a cal.430 (=43999) judging from the short three-cifer caliber number on the movement, apparently a 1964 as far as I can make out from the case back, with a fine-knurled crown:

Source: eBay auction

Accordingly, it can be assumed to be correct to fit the fine-knurled crown (part number 55W31NS) to both the 43999 as well as the 5722 caliber second generation Grand Seiko chronometers, while maintaining originality.

Finally, part number 55W31NS is correct for the following watches:

1. Grand Seiko Chronometer models 5722, 43999
2. King Seiko Chronometer models 4400-9990, 4420-9920, 44999