1955 Helvetia reference 351 (caliber 64 manual winding, sub-second movement)

Helvetia Watches: A Legacy of Swiss Craftsmanship

Helvetia Watches, renowned for their precision and elegance, has a storied history that intertwines with the iconic Swiss watch brand, Omega. Helvetia, the Latin name for Switzerland, perfectly represents the brand's commitment to Swiss horological tradition and craftsmanship.

In April 1892, Louis Brandt & Frere, a prominent Swiss watch company, registered the name 'Helvetia' as one of their brand names. During this period, they also introduced the name 'Omega' for a new line of high-quality lever movement pocket watches, showcasing their pioneering manufacturing techniques.

The success of Omega watches led the Brandt brothers to establish a new company in La Chaux de-Fonds called 'Société d'Horlogerie La Générale' in 1895. This move allowed them to allocate more resources to the production of Omega watches by transferring the manufacturing of their other watches to this subsidiary.

However, in 1911, Omega Watch Co decided to withdraw from La Générale, resulting in the official transfer of the registered brand names that were still under Omega's control.

During the 1950s to 1960s, Helvetia flourished in the era of dress watches, characterized by slim profiles and sophisticated aesthetics. The brand's dress watches from this period showcased exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail - this example being no exception

Notably, Helvetia introduced the reference 64 movements, which were renowned for their precision and durability. Introduced during the 1950s, this hand-wound sub-second movement was renowned for its exceptional accuracy and reliability. The movement shows many similarities to contemporary Omega movements.

The caliber 64 movement emerged shortly after the introduction of the 830 family and showcased Helvetia's adaptability to the changing trends of the time. A larger 13.5 Ligne size reflected the growing preference for larger watches, while the caliber 64 movement was thinner than its predecessor, the 82C, making it ideal for slim dress watches of the era. With a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, it provided precise timekeeping and powered numerous Helvetia timepieces.

This piece has a serial number on the inside back cover dating it to 1955:

I found this piece in a second-hand shop in Århus, and was drawn by its wonderfully patinaed dial, rose gold hands and markers and large sub-second dial. It's 35 mm was large for the time, and the narrow bezel makes it wear larger - it would certainly have stood out in the post-war years!

The movement is pristine, starts up with a few winds of the crown and is still accurate to within seconds a day - internal markings indicate that this watch was serviced and maintained. Fitted to an olive drab NATO strap this watch becomes informal, with the rose gold hands and markers highlighted by the contrasting olive green of the strap, but can quickly be transformed to a formal dress watch by fitting a dark brown Horween leather strap.