Showing posts with label Seiko. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seiko. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 8, 2020

Seiko Gen 2 7T27-7A20 1995 British Royal Airforce (RAF) Military Issued chronograph

1995 Seiko Gen 2 (2nd Generation) Royal Air Force 
flight crew issued military analog chronograph

The 1995 Seiko Gen 2 (2nd Generation) Royal Air Force flight crew issued military analog chronograph was issued to Her Majesty’s armed forces from November 1990, following the issue of the Gen 1 quartz chronograph.


The caseback is inscribed with the "broad arrow" and NATO Stock Number (NSN) ‪6645-99 7683056‬ used for military-issued equipment:

6645 = Time Measuring Instruments
99 = NATO Country code United Kingdom
768-3056 = individual part number

In contrast to the commercial versions, the issued version has a 38mm case with a matte, bead-blasted finish, fixed strap bars and a "circle P” dial, indicating radioactive Promethium lume. 

The register at "12" is the 30 minute counter, the register at "6" is the continuous seconds and the register at "9" indicates the current hour on a 24-hour scale. 

The 7T27 (Gen 2) movement takes an SR927SW (395) 9.5 x 2.6mm battery.  

GEN1 (left) and GEN2 (right)


Sunday, December 8, 2019

Seiko Gen 1 (1st Generation) 7A28-7120 Royal Air Force flight crew issued military analog chronograph


Seiko Gen 1 (1st Generation) 7A28-7120 Royal Air Force 
flight crew issued military analog chronograph watch 

The Seiko Gen 1 (1st Generation) 7A28-7120 Royal Air Force flight crew issued military analog chronograph watch was the first quartz chronograph watch issued to Her Majesty’s armed forces, with October 1984 being the first date of issue. 


This piece produced in August 1984 is thus one of the first issued of a total run of 11,307 Gen 1 chronographs, which were not replaced until November 1990.

The caseback is inscribed with the "broad arrow" and NATO Stock Number (NSN) ‪6645-99 7683056‬ used for military-issued equipment: 

6645 = Time Measuring Instruments
99 = NATO Country code United Kingdom
768-3056 = individual part number

In contrast to the commercial versions, the issued version has a 37mm diameter case with matte, bead-blasted finish, fixed strap bars and a "circle P” dial, indicating radioactive Promethium lume. 

The ‪3:00‬ o’clock register measures ‪1/10‬ths of a second, while the large center hand measure elapsed seconds.  The ‪9:00‬ o’clock register records chronograph minutes up to 30 while the bottom register is a continuous seconds hand.


The 7A28 (Gen 1) reference is Seiko's first analog chronograph, impressively over-engineered with metal gears and a 15-jewel movement which is able to be serviced and maintained. It takes a SR936SW (394) 9.5 x 3.6mm battery.

The Gen1 was originally issued on a nylon/leather Bund type (NSN 6645-99-527-7059) strap, which was later replaced with a nylon NATO (6B/2617, and NSN 6645-99-124-2986. Post war RAF straps also included the steel Bonklip (6B/2763 (17.5 mm), 6B/3224 (19.0mm), which were phased out in the early eighties but remained in issue until existing stocks were depleted.


Wednesday, February 6, 2013

How to fit a domed sapphire crystal (Seiko 6309-7040)


Having seen a number of questions regarding the fitting of new crystals to Seiko divers, I have prepared the following simple guide. From the outset I would like to say that anyone can do this, with a few simple tools, even if their 9-year old son William is watching and has an inexhaustible line of questions.


Start with a clean work area. A sheet of printer paper gives a nice, dust-free work surface. The crystal is a domed sapphire crystal from Harold Ng (Yobokies), the watch is a wonderfully patinaed original vintage Seiko 6309 on a Super Oyster with Yobokies solid end links:



Using a sharp pocketknife, ease the bezel off by pushing the knife under the crystal and twisting gently. The bezel will pop off. Take care not to lose the small steel ratcheting ball.



Tell William to keep quiet. Use a rubber-ball (or other) caseback remover to...remove the caseback:



Press down on the retaining mechanism and remove the crown:



Turn the watch over and gently tip out the movement. Cover the movement with a shot glass:



Get another shot glass, pour a whiskey and tell William to keep quiet. Rummage in your box of tools and find the crystal press:



Remove the crystal retaining ring in the same way you removed the bezel:



Send William out to blow his nose. Crystal retaining ring removed:



Use crystal press to remove crystal. A firm squeeze:



...and it pops right out. Check the condition and orientation of the crystal gasket and wipe it with a smear of silicone grease:



Clean the surrounding area with a Q-tip:



Press the new crystal in with the crystal press, checking that the crystal gasket is not pinched:



Place the crystal retaining ring in position:



...and use the crystal press to snap it home:



Insert the movement and crown, making sure the chapter ring lines up:



Lubricate the caseback with a dab of silicone grease and fit, after which the bezel can be snapped on using the crystal press:



And admire your handiwork, after unlocking the cupboard and letting William out:





Time taken: a little over 10 minutes.

THE VERDICT: it was a pleasure to deal with Yobokies, in the same way it is a pleasure to deal with our other suppliers of Seiko parts. We really need to stop up from time to time and thank our blessings by having suppliers who also are enthusiasts

The crystal is a wonderful upgrade to the flat Seiko original. The gentle dome gives depth to the dial and creates a wonderfull play when moving the watch. The dome gives life to the watch and makes it look like it is under water, even when it is not. The AR coating on the inside of the watch gives fascinating blue reflections (see last picture) and makes the dial easy to read at all angles. The fact that it is a scratch resistant sapphire gives peace of mind in daily use. In all, a "mod" which improves an already perfect watch. SCORE: 10/10.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Japan: Clocker of the Games Time Magazine, Oct. 16, 1964


The following article appeared in Time Magazine, Oct. 16, 1964 and provides an interesting insight into Seiko production figures in 1963:



"Next to the athletes, the most vital ingredients in the Olympic Games are the precision timepieces needed to clock the contests, whose outcomes sometimes depend on milliseconds of difference. Last week, as the 18th Games got under way in Tokyo, the official timepieces were not European for the first time in Olympics history. They were Japanese, and they all bore one name: Seiko, the brand mark of K. Hattori & Co., Ltd., Japan's biggest watchmaker (1963 sales: $98 million).The switch made sense. Duplicating its efforts in cameras and transistor radios, Japan has quietly become a top producer of watches, aggressively competing around the world against the long-unchallenged watchmakers of Europe. Japanese watch production has ticked upward from 2,000,000 annually to 11,700,000 in a decade, now ranks fourth behind that of Switzerland, Russia and the U.S.Split-Second Timing.

Hattori, founded in 1881 by a clock salesman of that name, started out as a shoestring importer of foreign timepieces, later pioneered Japan's own watch industry. Destroyed by a 1923 earthquake, Hattori rebuilt, only to be leveled again by U.S. bombers. That disaster proved to be a blessing. In starting from scratch the third time, the company virtually scrapped hand-assembly methods, today makes 75% of its watches by machine. As a result of its super-efficiency, Hattori claims to have been for five years the non-Communist world's largest maker of jeweled-lever watches. Last year it turned out 5,900,000 wristwatches, 53% of the Japanese total, this year expects its output to rise to 7,000,000.In 1959, when Tokyo was selected as the 1964 Olympics site, Hattori shrewdly picked a delegation of technicians to attend the 1960 Games in Rome, where they carefully studied timing problems and techniques. When the Tokyo Olympic Organizing Committee asked whether there was a Japanese company capable of providing time clocks for the 1964 Games, for the sake of national honor, Hattori was ready.

Last week, after an investment of $850,000 in research, Hattori's men unveiled 1,300 ingenious Olympic time devices. They ranged from nine varieties of split-second stop watches to an electronic judge of swimming events that: 1) clocks swimmers to 1/1,000th of a second; 2) memorizes individual lap times of up to nine swimmers at a time; and 3) prints all scores on a sheet of paper the instant the race is over, thus eliminating time-consuming human calculation.Pushing the Undersell. For its services Hattori is paid only in prestige. "I hope some of the foreign visitors will remember us after the Olympics," says Company President Shoji Hattori, 64, second son of the late founder.

To refresh their memories, Hattori salesmen are stepping up their export drive, in the past year have broken the Swiss monopoly in Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, where Seiko watches now sell at the rate of 9,000 a month. Another target is the U.S. market, which Hattori has heretofore tapped largely by supplying movements to Benrus. Despite forbidding U.S. tariffs, Hattori is beginning a U.S. sales campaign for Seiko, retailing 17-jewel wristwatches for $29.75, just over half the price of a Swiss equivalent."

The following are contemporary 1964 US ads:



(Source: eBay)



(Source: http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/thread/1195051689/My+new+5717-8990+and+a+question....)



Tuesday, April 6, 2010

HOW TO BUY SEIKO´S FIRST DIVER - 6217-800x "62MAS"



The following is a Seiko 6217 reference/buyers guide inspired by Isthmus´ HOW TO BUY A SEIKO 6309 DIVER. The content is based my own observations, together with information compiled from the SCWF archives [1]; information and images found on Kevin Chan´s Seiko Diver´s Reference [2], the Seiko Divers Gallery [3], Shawn´s First Diver Heaven [4] and Seiko´s book: "A Journey In Time: The Remarkable Story of Seiko" (2003) [5]; together with valuable feedback from Fermin Saranilla (Fermz), Seikomart and Clayton (Hawk 54). Please feel free to update, correct and append this buyer´s guide – thanks in advance for your contributions!


QUICK REFERENCE

Movement/case: 6217-8000; 6217-8001
Movement: 6217A (62MAS)
Production: 1965-1968
Case size: 37mm (42mm with the crown)
Lug width: 19mm (same as 6105-800x and 6105-811x)
Thickness: 13.5mm
Functions: 150M water proof, bi- directional rotating bezel, date

The 150m water proof 6217 "62MAS" is Seiko (and Japan´s) first true diver, and as such enjoys a position of undisputed horological significance. As Seiko´s first diver it has high collectability in its own right, and is the cornerstone of any significant collection of vintage Seiko divers, be it a collection of 150m divers, shrouded divers or Professional (Prospex) models. In short - the collectability of the 62MAS does not need any further justification – no other Seiko diver can claim to be the first!



Family photo: first generation 62MAS diver (left) third generation 6309 diver (center) and pre-diver Sportsmatic 30m Silverwave (right)

Reflecting the era of its production, the 62MAS is relatively small in comparison to the subsequent legendary line of Seiko divers. Although it is quite scarce, good examples do surface relatively often. Original dials and bezel inserts can be very difficult to find, and command a premium when they do turn up. In contrast to the boldness of subsequent Seiko divers, the first model diver truly reflects the discrete styling of 60´s watches, making it equally at home under a tuxedo, at a business meeting or strapped over a wetsuit in the depths of the ocean!

HERITAGE
During the 1950s and 1960s, sport scuba diving had become increasingly popular. Increasing prosperity coupled with scuba technology developed during WWII gave private divers access to revolutionary equipment – including true divers watches. The advent of modern bezelled dive watches dawned in 1953 with the introduction of the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Paradoxically, until the second half of the 1960s, landlocked Switzerland was the principal producer of dive watches for civilian diving!

Prior to the 1964 Tokyo Olympics (with Seiko as Official Timer), Seiko had introduced its first range of truly submersible sport watches with (internal) rotating countdown bezels( in the form of the Seikomatic 50m Silverwave (1962)and the Sportsmatic 30m Silverwave (1964). These sports divers were the immediate precursors to Seiko (and Japans) first professional diver comprising 150m depth capability, shockproofing, extreme legibility and an external timing bezel,the 62MAS(1965).




1964 Seikomatic 30m Silverwave sports diver (left) with 1967 62MAS first professional diver (right)

Although the 62MAS is relatively discrete in comparison to the subsequent, legendary line of Seiko divers, the 62MAS was at the time considered to be a bold, rather large watch. Shown between the 1964 Seikomatic 30m Silverwave, the 62MAS can be seen to have a more substantial case, larger crown and bolder hands and markers, in accordance with the increased depth rating of the 62MAS.

In order to showcase of its ruggedness, the 62MAS was successfully worn for three months by the 8th Antarctic Wintering Team in 1966:



In 1967, Seiko engineers had developed the technology to build the first 300m divers watch (6215-010), heralding the introduction of Seiko´s high-end professional divers. 




1968 saw the introduction of the second-model 150m divers, the 6105 series, which implemented a number of improvements to the 62MAS including a locking crown, more substantial case including integrated crown guard, improved screw-down caseback design and the replacement of the domed acrylic crystal with Seiko´s proprietary Hardlex crystal.

CASEBACK AND DATING


First model (62MAS) divers have one of two caseback types: dolphin-logo or SEIKO-logo (similar to the later 6105 second model divers). Both caseback types are marked “waterproof”, a designiation which was subsequently prohibited, with later divers using the more correct "water resistant". According to SCWF posts, Tokunaga-san claims the Dolphin case-back mark indicates self-winding water-proof watches. The earlier Seikomatic 50m (1962) and Sportsmatic 30m(1964)sports divers introduced the caseback wave logo, to denote their sports/waterproof nature, and subsequent lines of Seiko divers have sported various permutations of the wave logo, from simple, stylised waves for watches with lower water resistance to more detailed full Tsunami wave logo for the true divers.

             


Dolphin, back and front (left) and non-dolphin back and front caseback (right)

It can be difficult to find a caseback in good condition, as the detailing of the 1960s casebacks is easily polished off through extended use.

Case back numbers include the model identification ie: 6217-8001 or 6217-8000, as well as the 7-digit serial number. I assume that the different model numbers indicate different markets, similar to the 6309 model numbering. Seiko started the 6 digit serial numbering system in 1968, for dating purposes it is relevant to know that the 1st digit is the year, while the 2nd digit is the month: i.e. 72xxxxx indicates the watch was produced in February 1977.

CROWN


The rather massive crown (about the same size as the 6309) gives Seiko´s first model diver a particularly purposeful look, without detracting from the overall symmetry of the watch.



The 62MAS is the only of Seiko´s dive watches not to sport crown guards. The crown does not screw down or lock, and is signed with a Seiko logo. The 150m rating of the 62MAS and its successors is achieved through the judicious use of seals – the later use of screw down and lock mechanisms as well as crown guards do not impart water resistance per se, but rather protect the stem and seals from knocks and snags which might compromise the integrity of the seals.

 


Aftermarket crown(left), original crown (right)

Aftermarket replacement crowns for the 6105-8000/8009 and 6217 are readily available on eBay (Stephen Go, “thewatchworks”). Aftermarket crowns are almost identical to the originals, although the flat Seiko-marked face of the aftermarket crowns appears to be marginally larger than on the originals.

DIAL AND HANDS


The dial has a metallic, coppery sheen, similar to the dial of its Sportsmatic 30m sports/waterproof predecessor and the 6601-8830 Seahorse (see below). In contrast to the trademark batons of earlier Seiko sports dials, Seiko opted for deep, chrome-lined rectangular lume wells – thickness being a factor determining the intensity of the lume.




First model diver (62MAS, left) and second generation 6105-8000 and 6105-8009 divers

These rectangular lume wells were continued for the second model (6105) diver series and were replaced in the third model (6309) series divers by thickly applied lume “dots”. With the advent of newer luminescent technologies, lume thickness appears to have become less of an issue and lume wells have been eliminated or replaced by decorative chrome or white-gold lume borders in high-end watches (interestingly, early 50s and 60s "tool watch" Rolex submariner dials did not use lume borders or wells, making do with simple lume dots similar to those of Seiko´s third model (6309) series divers).

The lume on the NOS original dials and hands I have seen have had a faint green tinge, although I have seen NOS-advertised watches with snow-white lume. I suspect that the lume may lose its green tinge with age, or these dials and hands may have been relumed.




Aftermarket (left) and original (center, right) dials

Original dials are virtually impossible to source, although aftermarket dials are available. Generally, the lume wells of the aftermarket replacements are more symmetrical and evenly made than the original wells, which appear to be rather primitively cast.

The minute and hour hands are simple, bevelled and lumed baton hands, and are the same as those used on the second model (6105) divers as well as a number of other models, including the 7005-8052 70m diver, the 7025 70m Diver and the 6601-8830 Seahorse (which also has a dial remarkably similar to the 6217 diver!)




6601-8830 Seahorse dial and hands (left) and 7005-8052 70m diver dial and hands (right)

Other Seiko models have similar hands that are narrower, or have lume on the minute hand which doesn´t extend to the tip of the hand. The correct hands are bevelled on each edge of the lume, rather than bevelled down the middle of the hands.




Original dial showing correct bevelled hands

The seconds hand with the box lume tip is not the same as that used on the 6105 series divers, but is identical to those of the 7005-8052 and 6601-8830.

BEZEL


The first model diver´s bezel is bi-directional with no "clicks". The bezel insert is narrower than subsequent Seiko diver´s bezels, and the bezel itself is very finely “knurled”. The bezel is a fine example of discrete 60s styling, and its very high quality reminds me of camera lenses and scientific equipment of the same era. Accordingly, the 62MAS lives up to the Seiko name: Seiko is a Japanese word meaning "exquisite".




Original, NOS bezels and inserts


In contrast to bezel inserts on subsequent models, the lume dot is not surrounded by a silver triangle, and there are 4 minute dots on either side of the lume “pip”. “Aftermarket” bezel inserts are typically 6105 or 6309 aftermarket bezels turned on a lathe to fit – subsequently, the tops and bottoms of the numbers have been removed and these bezel inserts are easy to identify.




"Incorrect" (left) and original (right) bezel inserts

At the time of writing this guide (2008), “correct” aftermarket inserts are not available. NOS bezels and inserts do occasionally surface, although the last 6217-8001 bezel I saw on eBay went for several hundred dollars!

STRAP


This subject has been the subject of a number of forum discussions, and it appears that the 62MAS was originally provided with the "tire tread" strap (based on the 1967 Seiko catalogue pictured below) but the waffle strap has been reported on a number of NOS pieces (seen also in Seiko´s book: "A Journey In Time: The Remarkable Story of Seiko" (2003) [5]) and was probably also available during this period.






Waffle type rubber straps



Many 62MAS are seen today on a period "Tropic" strap, and the general consensus is that the “tire-tread”, “waffle” and (to a degree) the “tropic” rubber straps are acceptably original.









Tire Tread strap from original 1967 brochure (left) and period-correct "Tropic" (right)rubber straps


Lug width of the 62MAS is 19mm, and the watch uses original C190FS (OEM SEIKO) fat spring bars. These bars are 2.5mm thick and have 1.00mm ends.







CRYSTAL


The first model (62MAS) divers were fitted with a 31.5mm acrylic crystal, held in place by a metal tension ring. Seiko-branded replacement acrylic crystals marked # 315T01ANS are quite readily available on eBay, and similar Chronostop crystals may also be used (Jose Sotto on eBay).




Replacement crystal (left) and domed original crystal (right)

The crystal is thick and relatively domed, sitting high above the bezel – making the crystal prone to scratching. Fortunately, most scratches on acrylic crystals can easily be buffed out!




MOVEMENT


The first model (62MAS) divers are powered by the 17J 6217A (movement: 62; prefix: 17A; model: 62MAS) date-only automatic movement, beating at a sedate 18000bph (5bps). The movement has a diameter of 28mm and a thickness of 5.3mm. This movement lacks hacking and handwinding capabilities, although the date is quickset. It is the consensus on the SCWF forum that MAS stands for “autoMAtic (MACHIKKU) Selfdater”.




17J 6217A automatic movement

The 6217A movement was produced from 1964 until 1968 at Seiko´s Suwa Plant in Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, and was originally used in the 1964 World Time. In order to facilitate the 24hr function, an additional wheel and hand are added to the 6217A movement (subsequently termed MASWT).




Replacement (or upgrade) 24J 6205B automatic movement

The 6217A is a cousin of (and can be replaced/upgraded with) the 24J 6205B movement used in the Seiko Selfdater 6205-8960 of the same period. These movements can be found for under 50USD on eBay.


62MAS IN MODERN CULTURE


In agreement with its discrete appearance, first model (62MAS) divers have kept a relatively low profile in the media. Apart from their publicised participation in the 8th Antarctic wintering Team (1966) Romer Treece (Robert Shaw) wears a Seiko 6217 diver in the movie The Deep (1977).

PRICES


In 1965, Seiko´s first model diver (62MAS) sold for 13,000JPY, approximately half the monthly wage of a Japanese college graduate. By way of comparison, the precursor sport/waterproof 50m Silver Wave 6201B (1960) cost 11,000JPY while its lower-spec successor, the 6601-7990 30m Sportsmatic Silverwave sports diver cost about 8,200JPY in 1964. The Silverwaves today cost about 150 USD, while 62MAS divers typically (2008) sell in excess of 500USD (NOS examples reaching 1500USD or more!). Although the Silverwaves are relatively scarce and historically significantly as precursors to Seiko´s first diver, the 62MAS price development clearly reflects the horological significance of this piece in any Seiko diver collection.


______________________________________________
REFERENCES
[1] Seiko and Citizen watch forum. http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/
[2] Kevin Chan´s Seiko Diver´s Reference.  http://www.makedostudio.com/watches/...ers/index.html
[3] Seiko Divers Gallery. http://www.makedostudio.com/watches/...s/gallery/6217
[4] Shawn´s First Model Diver Heaven. http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440...L+DIVER+HEAVEN
[5] "A Journey In Time: The Remarkable Story of Seiko" (2003)
[6] The stuff WIS legends are made of... http://www.biosciencecommunications.dk/Seiko/6217.html